March 9 2020
The day starts early with Pablo picking us up to try out our snorkeling gear.
Then we board a boat with a group of tourists from Denmark. Los Tuneles is the southernmost tip of Isabela Island. Only a few boats a day are allowed to land there. During the trip, we were able to observe a manta ray deploying its 2 large fins out of the water! The distance between the 2 fins (around 2-3 meters) gives us an idea of the gigantic size of this animal. We can't wait to see one underwater! We also approach a huge rock in the middle of the water, where a few boobies have settled. Here we can see blue-legged boobies, emblematic of the islands, as well as the "Nazca Booby".
The lava tunnels - Los Tuneles
We then approach the coveted Los Tuneles site to walk through the lava tunnels. These lava tunnels are both submerged and emerged, undulating on the sea surface like a snake. We spotted 2 eagle rays mating. A few blue-footed boobies and several sea turtles swimming close to the surface. The water is so clear and limpid. A few cacti grow here.
We observe a blue-footed booby up close (female) and the guide teaches us the differences between males and females, and above all the question on everyone's lips: Why do boobies have blue feet? It could be due to their diet. It involves pigments called carotenoids, which come from the fish they eat. Scientists have also shown that the bluer the feet, the healthier the bird. So, by choosing a partner with very blue feet, females are choosing well-nourished, healthy partners, which is good for their offspring!
Part of the male courtship ritual involves showing off his beautiful blue paws to impress mademoiselle. It's a far cry from Tinder! Selection is not easy for the female, as this is a monogamous species, so she has to select her future partner carefully. It's also been shown that females with paler feet and a less vibrant blue color are less likely to be courted by the opposite sex. Another interesting fact about this type of booby: babies don't have blue paws when they're still being fed by their mother, because she ingests and absorbs the nutrients responsible for the blue color and these don't transfer to the baby.
Birds have always fascinated me with their different and impressive courtship displays, from one species to another.
Back on board and simple picnic dinner on the boat.
Abundant marine life
The boat then takes us to a snorkeling "spot" where we swim for about 1 hour in search of animals to observe. As soon as we entered the water, we were lucky enough to see a huge sea turtle (approx. 1.50 m long) eating moss/algae on a rock. Dozens of small fish around its head ensure its hygiene - a veritable washing station. The turtle has no fear of us and continues its activities at the bottom of the water while more than 10 of us watch. It's a magnificent sight. The guide helps us dive in 1 at a time to get a closer look. We are also lucky enough to see the turtle come to the surface several times to take a breath before diving again.
We then make our way to 2 small underwater rock caves, where several white-tip sharks rest. White-tip sharks can grow up to 3 m long, but average 1.5 m in length. It can be recognized by the white tips of its pectoral, dorsal and caudal fins.
Unlike most sharks, which must swim constantly to oxygenate themselves, this species is able to remain motionless on the bottom. To do this, it controls the opening and closing of its mouth to create a current of water that flows through its gills.
Our guide helps us to stay at the bottom of the cave, "wedging" us in so that we can observe these fearsome predators up close! We've never seen so many sharks in one place, it's unbelievable. In the 2nd cavern, there are around 10-12 of them resting or moving slowly around. We're about 1 metre from them!
During our search for aquatic species, we also see a wide variety of fish, including parrotfish. Our next search is for a seahorse, which the guide tells us is a rare sight. He finds us 1, orange in color, clinging to its little branch at the bottom of the water in a shallow section near the mangrove. It looks quite vulnerable to me, the little one undulating to the rhythm of the waves.
After a 1-hour swim, we board the boat again and approach the shore in a shallow section, where several young blacktip sharks are on the move. Being young and vulnerable, this is where they protect themselves from predators.
Then it was time to head back to the port of Puerto Villamil, at around 1.30pm, after a beautiful journey. The sun was beating down on us during our hour's snorkeling at Los Tuneles. The next day, we realized the extent of the damage to our fragile white skin. Beware of the equatorial sun - it's really strong!
Supper time
We go out in the evening to eat. We start with a walk on the town's beach. Then we find a place that looks good for a 5 à 7 and, what's more, is listed in the lonely planet, our reference par excellence. It's called Iguana Point bar where happy hour advertises 2 cocktails for 10 $. We choose mojito maracuya and daiquiri maracuya. Nothing but maracuya (or passion fruit)! Sunset with ocean view from the 2nd floor terrace! What more could you ask for!
For dinner, we choose the Shawarma Hot. Music by Bob Marley. Shawarma with fish, original and very good. Wrap with falafel and patacon, a dish based on flattened and fried pieces of green plantain. We eat well, even if the prices are on a par with the USA. Which is very expensive compared with the rest of South America.
Eventually we headed back to the hotel for a good night's sleep. Los Tuneles was a real eye-opener, and a must-do in the Galapagos.
For the rest of our adventures, follow our Galapagos Diary:
Day1
Day2
Day3
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